How to Make a Simple Fanny Pack (Free Sewing Pattern)

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This simple fanny pack pattern is square and consists of a front and a top zipper. The perfect handsfree bag that is so stylish for carrying all your essentials!

Remember those dreadful fanny packs your parents wore everywhere in the 80s? Well, fashion always repeats itself and now the fanny pack style is back in full force!

However these days stylish fanny pack fashion dictates that one wear it over the shoulders (both in front and on the back are considered okay). But never mind what fashion gurus says, you do you and wear it however you like!

How do you make a crossbody fanny pack?

Today I will be showing you how to make your own version of a very simple fanny pack (also called bum bag, hip bag, or belt bag). The bag has two side flaps for increased comfort and comes with an adjustable belt that closes with a buckle. This way, you can easily convert it from a hip bag (or bum bag) to a crossbody bag that goes over your shoulders.

What are the Dimensions of this Hip Bag?

This simple fanny pack you are about to make measures approximately 5” x 8” (12.7cm x 20.3cm). The side width (thickness) of the bag is approximately 2.5” (6.35 cm).

This is a perfect size for carrying all your essentials such as keys, wallets, phone, and more without being bulky.

How Much Fabric Do I need for a Fanny Pack?

For this fanny pack pattern that I will show you how to make, you will need 1/2 yard (0.45m) of exterior fabric and 1/2 yard (0.45m) of lining fabric.

If you choose to use a thin cotton fabric for the exterior (like I did), I recommend adding 1/2 yard (0.45m) of fusible fleece or fusible interfacing for support. This is optional if you are using a thick fabric such as vinyl or canvas.

How do you make a fanny pack at home?

This basic yet stylish bag is very easy to make at home. All you will need is a home sewing machine and the following items:

MATERIALS:

• EXTERIOR FABRIC – 1/2 yard (0.46 meters)
• LINING FABRIC – 1/2 yard (0.46 meters)
• FUSIBLE INTERFACING (optional) – 1/2 yard (0.46 meters). I used Pellon 987F Fusible Fleece. May not need if using medium to heavy-weight canvas or duck cloth for the exterior.
• 9″ ZIPPER – for front pocket
• 12″ HEAVY DUTY ZIPPER – for top pocket. I recommend using a double zip for ease of use (speaking from personal experience!). However, one zip is fine as well.
• 1″ WIDE WEBBING – 1 Yard (91.44 cm)
• 1″ PARACHUTE BUCKLES (x1) – I got mine at Hobby Lobby. Also available on Amazon.
• 1″ STRAP ADJUSTERS (x1) – I got mine at Hobby Lobby. Also available on Amazon.

TOOLS:

• HOME SEWING MACHINE
• FABRIC SCISSORS – these Ginghers are my favorite.
• CLEAR RULER – I have the DRITZ See-Through Sewing Ruler
• SEWING PINS & SEWING CLIPS
• MATCHING THREAD

FANNY PACK SEWING PATTERN

To get started, you will need to first download and print the FREE FANNY PACK SEWING PATTERN.

The pattern is available in the FREE MINDYMAKES LIBRARY. In order to access the library, all you will need to do is Subscribe Now to receive the password.

Next, cut out the pattern pieces on fabric. Note that you will need to draw out the patterns [SIDE & BOTTOM PIECE] and [ZIPPER PIECE] on fabric. Exact measurements are listed in the PDF Sewing Pattern.

EXTERIOR FABRIC

• Side & Bottom Piece (x1)
• Zipper Piece (x2)
• Front Zipper Top (x1)
• Front Zipper Bottom (x1)
• Back Piece (x1)
• Zipper Ends Cover (x2)
• Side Flap Piece (x4)

LINING

• Side & Bottom Piece (x1)
• Zipper Piece (x2)
• Front Zipper Top Piece (x1)
• Front Zipper Bottom Piece (x1)
• Front Zipper Pocket Back Piece (x1)
• Front Piece (x1)
• Back Piece (x1)

NOTE: FRONT PIECE and BACK PIECE are the exact same pattern. Just cut out 2 pieces of the lining using the [BACK PIECE] pattern.

FUSIBLE INTERFACING*

*Optional if using thick fabric such as vinyl or canvas. However, highly recommended if you are using thin fabrics for added support.

• Side & Bottom Piece (x1)
• Zipper Piece (x2)
• Front Zipper Top (x1)
• Front Zipper Bottom (x1)
• Front Zipper Pocket Back (x1)
• Back Piece (x1)
• Side Flap Piece (x2)

How do you make a fanny pack pattern?

The following tutorial with step-by-step instructions will show you exactly how to make your own version of a stylish fanny pack.

The bag is fully lined and consists of two compartments (a top zipper and a front zipper).

Additionally, you can always add more zipper pockets to the bag to create more compartments if you like. Inside the lining and on the back of the bag are all great options. Designers choice!

Want to make a fanny pack with a front zipper flap and a back zipper pocket? This pattern is available in my Etsy Shop and includes printer-friendly PDF tutorial (no ads!) and ready-to-print pattern pieces in PDF format.

Need a little refresher for some Basic Sewing Skills? Check out the following articles:

• How to Thread a Sewing Machine
• How to Thread and Wind The Bobbin
• 10 Tips to Easily Thread a Sewing Needle
• 19 Essential Hand Sewing Stitches Everyone Needs to Know

Ready to get started? Let’s go!

STEP-BY-STEP SEWING TUTORIAL

First, before you start, make sure to apply the interfacing (if using) to the appropriate fabric pieces.

SEWING FRONT ZIPPER POCKET

Fold each of the zipper end covers in half and pin them on both ends of zipper. Make sure the folded edge face the zipper pull. Baste zipper covers down to zipper. For more information about basting, check out How to Sew a Basting Stitch

Pin and stitch [FRONT ZIPPER TOP PIECE] to zipper, right sides together, at 1/2”(12.7mm) seam allowance

Next, pin and stitch [FRONT ZIPPER BOTTOM PIECE] to zipper, right sides together, at 1/2”(12.7mm) seam allowance. The front of your bag with zipper pocket will look like the right photo.

Flip front of bag to wrong side. Fold [FRONT ZIPPER TOP PIECE] down (red arrow).

LEFT: Pin and sew [FRONT TOP ZIPPER LINING PIECE] to zipper, right sides together (yellow dotted line).
RIGHT: Top stitch seam allowance to lining.

Note that [FRONT ZIPPER TOP PIECE] is pushed to the left side so you are only sewing the lining and the seam allowance.

LEFT: Another view showing seam allowance top stitched to the lining. See how only the lining is sewn down to the seam allowance. [FRONT ZIPPER TOP PIECE] is not part of the top stitching.
RIGHT:Fold down (red arrow) the top portion of the zipper pocket (lining + exterior) so that right side of zipper is facing up.

LEFT: Pin and sew [FRONT BOTTOM ZIPPER LINING PIECE] to zipper, right sides together (yellow dotted line).
RIGHT: Top stitch seam allowance to lining (yellow dotted line), as you did previously.

Pin/clip [FRONT ZIPPER POCKET BACK PIECE] to front of bag. In the next steps we will refer to the front of bag as [FRONT OF BAG]

Most of the time, your [FRONT OF BAG] will be larger than [FRONT ZIPPER POCKET BACK PIECE]. This is normal!

In my example, the area shaded in orange is the part of [FRONT OF BAG] that extends beyond [FRONT ZIPPER POCKET BACK PIECE]. Note that f your [FRONT OF BAG] and [FRONT ZIPPER POCKET PIECE] are exactly the same size, no trimming necessary!

Here is a photo from one of our lovely readers. Note how her [FRONT ZIPPER POCKET BACK PIECE] is about 0.75”shorter than [FRONT OF BAG]. In this case, you can either trim off the excess from the bottom of [FRONT OF BAG] or you can trim off equal amounts (3/8 in) from the top and bottom. Use your best judgement! At the end of the day, as long as both pieces of fabric are the same size, you’ll be fine.

LEFT: Baste [FRONT OF BAG] to [FRONT ZIPPER POCKET BACK PIECE] (yellow dotted line). Trim excess zipper and any excess [FRONT OF BAG] fabric.
RIGHT: Your front bag zipper pocket is now done!

Top view of front bag zipper pocket.

HOW TO SEW TOP ZIPPER

Get ready the [ZIPPER PIECE] x 2, [ZIPPER END COVERS] x 2, and one 12” zipper

LEFT: Fold [ZIPPER END COVER] in half length-wise.
RIGHT: With the zipper fully zipped, place folded edge right against zipper pull and pin in place.

Fold second piece of [ZIPPER END COVER] in half and place it on other end of zipper, a distance of 12.25”(28.5 cm) away, as pictured. Make sure the folded edge of [ZIPPER END COVER] faces towards the middle of the zipper.

Put [ZIPPER PIECE] over, right side facing right side of zipper. Hold in place with pins or clips. Make sure side edge of [ZIPPER PIECE] matches exactly with ends of [ZIPPER END COVER].

NOTE: Move the [ZIPPER END COVER] along the zipper if it’s not matching exactly with edge of [ZIPPER PIECE].

Use a zipper foot and stitch [ZIPPER PIECE] to zipper.

Top stitch [ZIPPER PIECE] using matching thread. Press.

Put other [ZIPPER PIECE] over bottom of zipper, right sides together. Pin/clip in place.

Sew [ZIPPER PIECE] to zipper and top stitch with matching thread.

Place [SIDE & BOTTOM PIECE] over zipper and note if there is any excess fabric on the zipper (red arrows) that is wider than [SIDE & BOTTOM PIECE].

Trim excess with rotary cutters or scissors.

Pin or clip left and right side of [SIDE & BOTTOM PIECE] to zipper.

LEFT: Another view of [SIDE & BOTTOM PIECE] clipped to zipper
RIGHT: Stitch sides together at 1/2”(12.7mm) seam allowance

Trim excess zipper off.

Point seam allowance towards [SIDE & BOTTOM PIECE]. Top stitch with matching thread. Press. Repeat on other side.

Finished! We will refer to this piece as [ZIPPER/SIDE/BOTTOM PIECE].

SEWING BAG LINING

Use an iron and press in 1/2”(12.7mm) seam allowance on [ZIPPER PIECE] as shown in photo.

Clip and sew [ZIPPER PIECE] to [SIDE & BOTTOM PIECE], right sides together (yellow dotted line)

Using a matching colored thread, stitch down seam allowance towards [SIDE & BOTTOM PIECE] at 1/8”(3mm). Repeat on other side.

HOW TO SEW BAG STRAP & BUCKLE

Cut your 1” wide webbing into two pieces, one measuring 4.5”(11.4cm) long, and the other piece 31.5” (80cm). Iron on interfacing to [FLAP PIECE]. I used fusible fleece in this case.

Thread the 4.5”(11.4cm) long piece through the female end of the buckle. Meet the ends of the webbing, clip and basted in place (yellow dotted line).

LEFT: With right side of [FLAP PIECE] facing up, place buckle with webbing over short edge, 1/2” (12.7mm) from the top edge.
RIGHT: Place second [FLAP PIECE] over, right sides. together. Clip in place and sew (black dotted line)

LEFT: Clip corners at a diagonal
RIGHT: Turn flap piece with buckle to right side.

Repeat making other side of [FLAP PIECE] with the long (31.5 in) piece webbing. Photo shows other flap piece complete with corners clipped at a diagonal.

LEFT: Turn flap piece with webbing to right side and cut off the excess triangle at the bottom. At this point you may also choose to top stitch around the edge of the flap pieces for reinforcement (black dotted lines). Sorry, I completely forgot to do this in my demo!
RIGHT: Clip flap pieces to [BACK PIECE], 0.75”(19mm) from top edge. Baste in place (black dotted line)

NOTE: When basting the flaps, make sure to do it within the seam allowance. This means that your baste line will be a distance of less than 1/2”(12.7mm) from edge of fabric. This way, when you sew the [BACK PIECE] to the rest of the bag later, your basting stitch will be hidden in the seam allowance.

SEWING BAG TOGETHER

Prior to sewing the bag pieces together, you will need to mark the midpoint of all the pieces. First, fold each of the pieces in half and make a small diagonal cut on the fold. You will end up with a little notch that looks like the photo (right)

Black arrows show all the places where midpoint needs to be marked. You will do this for the exterior fabric as well as lining.

Pin [FRONT PIECE] and [BACK PIECE] to the [ZIPPER/SIDE/BOTTOM PIECE], right sides together. Match at the midpoints.

The following photo tutorial show how to sew the bag together at the corners. Note the photos use a black colored lining fabric (instead of the blue lining), but the process is exactly the same!

LEFT: At the corners, make a few shallow cuts on [ZIPPER/SIDE/BOTTOM PIECE]. This allows the fabric to “spread”so it’s easier to pin it to the corner of [FRONT PIECE].
RIGHT: Your pinned corner will look something like the photo

To sew the corner, go slowly and walk the foot if necessary. Make sure to smooth out any fabric on the left so the fabric doesn’t bunch up on itself (this creates unsightly pleats!). Red arrow shows the direction of the stitches on the fabric

NOTE: You will use your left hand to turn the fabric in counterclockwise direction as you sew around the corner.

LEFT: Finished stitch around bag corner. You might see some puckers, but this is ok as you can easily iron it out. What you shouldn’t see are pleats (where the fabric is stitched over itself).
RIGHT: Clip curves on [FRONT PIECE]. Repeat this for all the corners.

Sew [BACK PIECE] to [ZIPPER/SIDE/BOTTOM PIECE] in the same way you just did.
Trim seam allowance down to 1/4”(6mm) all around.

When you you turn the bag to the right side, see how nicely the corners appear!

Sew exterior bag together like you did for lining.
RIGHT: Turn bag exterior to right side and place bag lining (wrong side up) in.

Pin lining onto the wrong side of exterior bag and stitch in place using invisible ladder stitch.

FANNY PACK ADJUSTABLE BELT

LEFT: Slide free end of webbing up through the flat end of the strap adjuster, then down through the curved end (red arrow). This creates a loop (first loop) over strap adjuster.
RIGHT: Now slide free end of webbing though the first opening on male side of buckle, then back through the second opening. (blue arrow)

LEFT: Next, slide webbing up and down through the strap adjuster like you previously did. This creates a second loop beneath the first loop you had just made.
RIGHT: Pull webbing through (blue arrow) so the second loop is gone.

LEFT: Fold the end of webbing over on itself 1/4”(6mm), and then again over itself 1/4” (6mm).
RIGHT: Hold in place using clips.

Stitch down the folded webbing to the rest of the webbing. You will make two stitches, one at 1/8”(3mm) from the folded edge, and the other one 1/4”(6mm) from edge (yellow dotted lines).

Your DIY Fanny Pack is now finished!

Great for holding all your essentials for running errands, family outings, beach days, and more!

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